Interview with the expert: Willie Walters
Willie Walters is the Fashion Course Director at Central St Martin's College of Art & Design, which has turned out some of the world's biggest fashion names including Matthew Williamson, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Willie studied at St Martin's herself in the 1970s. Here, she tells us about her former students, her opinions on British fashion, and the next big name to watch.
1. Of your students that have gone on to become big names in fashion, which has captured what it is to be British?
Of the students that I think embody the St Martin's spirit, I'd have to say John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. John graduated before I started teaching at St Martins, but they both represent the icontastic side of British fashion. John Galliano takes his inspiration from every quarter of life. He thinks of a muse, then thinks of the story behind the muse. Hussein Chalayan is another example, he lets the narrative inspire him. But I think every student, British or not, reflects what it is to be British, because they've come here to study.
2. Who do you think is a quintessential British designer?
In terms of fashion design, the outrageousness of Alexander McQueen and the romanticism of John Galliano are quintessentially British.
3. How do you think British fashion compares to fashion from other parts of the world?
I think British fashion is competing very well. We've just had a very successful London Fashion Week. I think in terms of competing, it goes in waves - there are times when New York is powerful or Paris is hot, and I think now is London's turn.
I think where British fashion holds its own is in inspiration. It's where people start out, cut their teeth in the industry. It's why people are drawn to Central St Martins and to Britain like a magnet - people can really express their creativity here. You can walk around London and express yourself any way you like. There's this urban tribal fashion, with the punks and Goths, and more traditional tribal fashion - you wouldn't bat an eyelid if you saw a man walking down Oxford Street in traditional African dress, but you'd be screamed at in the streets of Paris.
My students say 'it's amazing' - you see them change the way they dress in the first week because there's a complete creative freedom here that's unlike anywhere else. And it's not just young people who have that freedom, it's elderly people too. I've had students from Japan who get their inspiration from elderly people at the market - all looks are embraced.
4. Which man and woman do you think embody British style?
I think that artist Grayson Perry embodies British style today, as well for a man and a woman! (His alter ego Claire).
5. In your opinion, what was Britain's greatest fashion moment or contribution to fashion?
Eccentricity. It's that simple. Eccentricity has been absolutely embraced in Britain for a long long time, and it's been accepted that people can dress any way they please. In the past, British people didn't have a boujois attitude to looking correct. They'd much rather go out and hunt than worry about whether they had the right handbag. Britain is a country of contrasts, and London is a city of contrasts.
6. Who's the next big British fashion name to watch?
I'd say Christopher Kane is a good one to watch - he's turning a corner of seriousness.
7. Who's your personal style icon?
Someone whose style I admire is Nancy Cunard. She was the daughter of Sir Bach Cunard of the Cunard shipping family. She was so bohemian, lived a riotous life and she was inspired by African art - always had lots of bangles running up her arms. Another person whose style I admire is Edith Sitwell, the Edwardian poetess.
8. Where is your favourite place to shop for fashion finds?
I think Liberty is a wonderful shop, and I think Dover Street Market is also becoming a lot more popular.
9. If you had one day to spend anywhere in Britain, where would you go and what would you do?
It has always been my fantasy to spend the day at the Victoria and Albert museum in London trying on all their fabulous collection of vintage clothes and jewellery!